Cuba; Part Two

Jan 23 2012

We got up early this morning and left Cienfuegos for the cayos. We’ve anchored at Cayo Blanco, had lunch and a nap, and it’s about time for cocktails. The trip was only a little choppy and the south coast along which we were running is just beautiful. We could see the road we took to Trinidad and it was fun to have seen this part of the trip from land first. The mountains are lovely and, from where we are anchored, it’s a beautiful backdrop. Tomorrow we will make the run to the north end of the Jardines de la Reina which is supposed to be some of the best fishing and diving in the world.

Jan 24 2012

It’s been an uneventful day. We are now anchored at Cayo Breton, the northern most cay of the Jardines de le Reina. It was a nice day for cruising and we did some trolling on the way down. Had a couple of fish on, but lost both, one with the lure. When we got here and anchored, we had a bite to eat, launched Hook and went for a spin around the cay. The mangroves have taken a beating in the last few hurricane seasons but the water is amazingly clear and I’m really looking forward to snorkeling and diving here.

Jan 25 2012

Today we moved a little further south to Cayo Ingles at the south end of the Cayos Cinco Balas. It only took a couple of hours to get down here. The wind had picked up over night so it was a little rougher than I prefer but not too bad. When we got to the first, and easiest anchorage to get into, we decided to try it. We got in and got the anchor set on the second try but it’s not a very well protected anchorage and with the wind direction it was a bit bouncy. We decided to try to come around the cay to the lagoon which is a much more protected anchorage but is a bit difficult to get into with a small and barely marked channel. That kind of navigating is always a bit nerve racking but we got in with no trouble and got the anchor set right away. It is beautiful and very well protected and it’s closer to the good diving. We’re glad we moved.
After lunch we launched Hook again and did more sight seeing. The mangroves here are in much better shape than the ones to the north and there are beaches here. We went for a walk on the beach, checked out the reef for where we want to dive tomorrow and then went for a swim to pick up some conch. I think we ended up with five nice sized ones and we’re looking forward to dinner tomorrow. We’ve just had cocktails and a beautiful sunset. Life is good.

Jan 26 2012

This morning we were sitting having our coffee, when another boat pulled into the lagoon. We looked though the binoculars and it appeared to be a local fishing boat, which it turn out to be. Their mooring is about 250 yards from where we’re anchored and as they came up we call our greetings. Two of them rowed over in their dingy and, after introductions and a little conversation at the transom we invited them aboard for coffee. An hour or so later, after some gifts of rum and fin, mask and snorkel sets, as well as some fishing magazines, Capt Johne had a fishing and lobstering guide for this afternoon (which is where he is right now) and we’re going to be having dinner (fresh lobster & fish of course) with them, and they have promised me filets to go. So I’m spending my afternoon baking bread which I needed to get done. Diving has been put off until tomorrow. It’s good to take the opportunities that are dropped on your doorstep.
2200hrs
Well, dinner was great. The guys got back from fishing a little after 1700hrs. They brought 30 Gal. of water over to give us a boost since the water maker is out. Then they went back to their boat to prepare the catch for dinner. I showered and started a rice pilaf and by 1805 they were rowing up with a big bucket of lobster and a tub of grouper and snapper filets. They also brought a beautiful, big, spiral shell, similar to a conch, but different, as a gift for me. The cook came to the galley with me and I directed him to each thing he needed as he asked for it. He was very concerned about the mess he was making and I had to keep telling him I’d clean it up and it wasn’t a problem. It got to be quite a joke between us.
Their Captain and my Captain sat down with the charts and our guide book and he gave Capt Johne a bunch of helpful, local navigational tips. By the way, none of them speak English so all of our interaction today has been in Spanish, broken and limited as ours is. What an awesome opportunity. Nights like this can’t be planned, they just happen and I feel so fortunate that they happen to me.

Jan 27 2012

This morning the fishing boat left about 0700hrs. We had a little relaxing time over coffee then set to portioning, vacuum sealing and freezing all our wonderful Grouper and Cubera Snapper that they left with us. We ended up with 8 bags, from 20 to 40ozs each, of beautiful filets and 22 lobster tail a couple of which are over a pound.
At about 1030hrs, with the incoming tide, we got our snorkeling gear and went out to the reef. It was still blowing 10 to 15 mph so we couldn’t get to the outside of the reef today but the two spots we snorkeled on the inside were awesome. The coral was healthy and teaming with all the beautiful tropical fish. Most note worthy were some of the biggest French Angels I’ve ever seen, big Queen triggers and big Hog fish. The wind has died down now and if it stays calm and the seas settle we’ll try to get to the outside of the reef tomorrow.
The afternoon brought a couple of rental catamarans into the lagoon, but after anchoring and going for a swim they moved on so we have it to ourselves again. We’ve just watched a wonderful sun set and are getting ready to eat a chipotle, lobster, potato, corn chowder.

Jan 28 2012

Today was a little frustrating but it turned out very well. It was calm enough that we thought we could get to the outside of the reef so, at about 0930, we started to get all the scuba gear together to to go out. The first frustration was, of the 7 tanks we have onboard, all of which were filled when we were in Ft Myers, one had 2400psi of air, two had about 1500psi, an the rest had less than 1000. Then one of the octoes was leaking air so Capt Johne spent quite a while fixing that but by about 1030 Hook was loaded and we were off to the reef. The first place we anchored was too deep to get a good bite. The next was okay but where we thought we could get through to the outside it was still too shallow for the amount of wave there was, but it was a great snorkeling spot, so we swam back to Hook, ditched the scuba stuff, and enjoyed a great snorkel. After that we tried one more place we thought we could get through to the outside. It was a great spot for both the things we saw and the cut to get to the outside but, neither one of us had enough weight (even though I had the same as I usual do) and we were having a heck of a time getting negatively buoyant. So, again, we enjoyed the snorkel and headed in. I’m amazed how different the 4 spots that we’ve snorkeled, within a mile stretch, have been. From which type of coral is most prevalent, to what fish we have and haven’t seen at each location. If it’s still not too rough, we’re going to try the last place again tomorrow, with lots of extra weight. You can always add air to the BC.
We got back and got the gear cleaned up, showered and had leftover grouper tacos for lunch. Then nap time. We were just heading out for a little late afternoon fishing when our fisherman friends pulled back into the lagoon. After we got back from fishing and were just sitting down for wine & cheese and a movie, the guys pulled up with more lobsters for us. We invited them to join us for the movie so we all just sat here and watched Avatar together. Now it’s time to shut down for the night.

Jan 29 2012

It was blowing too hard this morning for us to think it was a good idea to try the diving again. The wind had pick up in the evening while we were watching the movie and didn’t calm down enough for diving to make sense. When the guys rowed over to get their lobster tub they took our water jugs back to fill again. Later they brought them back and their Captain came along. He told us there was a front coming and that by tomorrow afternoon it would be here with 30+ knot winds. So we decided that, if we were going to see Cayo Cuervo, and get back to Casilda before the front came in, we should get going. With Hook in tow, we got underway by 1030 and arrived at Cayo Cuervo just after 1300. This is where the shrimpers anchor and, after some lunch, we jumped in Hook and took a little spin around to look at the flats and mangroves. The water is so clear it’s like riding around a huge aquarium. We saw some interesting, lacy, snowflake looking things on the bottom that I’ve never seen before. I don’t even know if they were plant or animal but they were very cool.
We stopped by one of the shrimp boats to ask some more local navigation questions for a more protected passage. They confirmed that the route Capt Johne was looking at was not a problem for us to get though and that it would be calmer in a north wind than the outer passage. They also said the front was stationary and not coming in tomorrow. They told us if we come by tomorrow morning at 0800 they’ll have shrimp to share. So for now we’re staying here and see what the morning brings. The sun is setting. The margarita is cold and it almost time to cook the lobster.

Jan 30 2012

The shrimp boat didn’t get back until almost 0830 but when we went over to ask if the front was still stationary, they said it was and they gave us not only a bucket of shrimp but also three lobsters and a pile of squid. Oh, they’d also given us two nice mutton snappers yesterday. We are super seafood rich now.
We spent the rest of the morning cleaning and freezing all that great stuff. After lunch (a shrimp and lobster salad) we debated our options for heading back to the main land. There are a few different routes, one shorter, one closer to land and more protected if the wind does pick up. We decided on the one in the middle and waiting until tomorrow morning to go. So we had the rest of the afternoon to finish getting ready and play. We decided to go out and see if there was a good spot for a snorkel. So we grabbed the gear, jumped in Hook and ran out around the spit to the closest place there was supposed to be coral. There wasn’t much there and we did some more scouting. The next place we tried seemed much more promising so we anchored and went in. We were at a beach and had to wade a bit and then swim over some very shallow area to get to the reef. There was coral in the shallow part and I felt like I couldn’t breath out or I might sink just a little and be brushing against it. But ones we got out past that part, WOW! It was about the healthiest, most diverse coral I’ve ever seen. And it was teeming with amazing fish. I saw a huge lobster, some really big parrot fish, a good sized grouper and lots more. I’m so glad we decided to go after waffling for a while. When we got back to Second Star, we got Hook cleaned up and put her aboard. I got the waypoints in the GPS for tomorrow. We’ve had dinner (grouper enchiladas). I just have a couple more things to put up to be ready to be underway. Tomorrow will be an early morning. Hopefully not too rough.