22 Mar 2009 0115 hrs GMT 2015 hrs local
Lat 15º 35.65' N Long 89º 00.03' W
At anchor Rio Dulce, Guatemala
Wind 6.9 knots E by ENE
Sea State – dead calm - Beaufort 1
Air Temp 82.4ºF Barometer 29.98
Scattered clouds
This morning was occupied with getting ready to sail from Livingston to Rio Dulce. A trip into town to see the Port Captain and send out some emails at an internet café. Once that was accomplished we headed back to Second Star.
Aeon prepared the bridge while I did the pre start checklist i9n the engine room. Harry got the windlass ready to retrieve the anchor. We had main engines started at 1040 hrs and underway at 1104 hrs.
The trip upriver was stunning. First you pass the headlands and then enter a gorge with vertical walls several hundred feet in height cover in dense jungle. There are birds everywhere. The river twists and turns so there is always some new little alcove or local hose to see.
At one point we had several small swallows trying to enter the trumpets of our horns. It was very entertaining. The trip took about 5 hours to traverse the river into Lago de Izabal. Once we were in the lake we passed under the Rio Dulce bridge and on up to Abel’s boat yard. No one answered the radio so I called another marina owner I had met in Livingston and asked about a slip in his marina. Alas we draught to much but he did recommend that we go back under the bridge and anchor off Bruno’s. He said it was Sunday and Steve the owner would be cooking at the BBQ and to introduce ourselves.
The anchorage was a little tight but we manage a nice position amongst several sail boats, launched Tink and motored to the dinghy dock. As predicted Steve was at the grill, cooking chicken, pork and sausage. We chatted for a bit and received a wealth of local information.
After a walk around the market we ended back at Bruno’s for dinner.
A brief ride in Tink back to Second Start for showers, a run of the watermaker and catching up on the logs.
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Sunday, March 22, 2009
March 21, 2009
21 Mar 2009 0140 hrs GMT 2040 hrs local
Lat 15º 49.34' N Long 88º 44.89' W
At anchor Livingston Harbor, Guatemala
Wind 2.6 knots NW
Sea State – 0’ to 1' - Beaufort 1
Air Temp 81.7ºF Barometer 30.05
Clear
This morning at 0900 hrs we set anchor off the municipal pier in Livingston Guatemala. Courtesy and “Q” flag had been set. After a 63 hour passage it was a tired but happy crew that enjoyed the silence of no engines. Especially Eve who is getting better, but still only tolerates the noise and vibration of the main engines. By the end of this passage she was out of her hiding place (soft cat carrier behind the fireplace) and moving about some. Still butt low, but adapting.
An hour later a launch appeared along side asking for permission to come aboard and inspect the vessel. The party included the Port Captain, Lt. Ronnie Morales, Customs agent Raul Veliz and officials from sanitation, immigration and customs. After a very courteous and cordial inspection we were welcomed to Guatemala. They offered us ride to the wharf in their launch which I declined. We were tired and wanted to rest and clean up before going ashore.
Just before noon we called a water taxi over from the pier and rode into Livingston. A short walk to Raul Veliz’s office where he awaited us with all our documents prepared. A couple of signatures and we were cleared. Raul arranged for a quick ride to the Port Captain’s office where Lt. Morales had the ship’s papers ready for my stamp and signature. Then with passports and papers in hand (or in the back pack) we went to find some lunch. We choose a small cantina near the wharf and in our broken Spanish ordered some shrimp (a huge serving), with salad and the ever present rice and beans and fresh tortillas. A cold beer and we were a happy crew.
After lunch we walked through the market just to have a stroll. Livingston is a typical Central American village of about 1500 souls. I saw a substantial community of Garifuna blacks who live mostly across the border in Belize. They are descended from an African tribe who ever though slaved never lost there identity and still carry many traditions through to this day.
Back aboard we had a rest then a light meal of salad and fresh fruit. We were still feeling the huge servings from lunch. There was some local entertainment as the village was having a cotillion or beauty contest or something in a restaurant on the water. The sounds of the preaching MC could be clearly heard.
After dinner we watched Shrek 2, although we all dozed alittle. Went to sleep with the sounds of Latin music carrying over the water.
Welcome to Central America
Lat 15º 49.34' N Long 88º 44.89' W
At anchor Livingston Harbor, Guatemala
Wind 2.6 knots NW
Sea State – 0’ to 1' - Beaufort 1
Air Temp 81.7ºF Barometer 30.05
Clear
This morning at 0900 hrs we set anchor off the municipal pier in Livingston Guatemala. Courtesy and “Q” flag had been set. After a 63 hour passage it was a tired but happy crew that enjoyed the silence of no engines. Especially Eve who is getting better, but still only tolerates the noise and vibration of the main engines. By the end of this passage she was out of her hiding place (soft cat carrier behind the fireplace) and moving about some. Still butt low, but adapting.
An hour later a launch appeared along side asking for permission to come aboard and inspect the vessel. The party included the Port Captain, Lt. Ronnie Morales, Customs agent Raul Veliz and officials from sanitation, immigration and customs. After a very courteous and cordial inspection we were welcomed to Guatemala. They offered us ride to the wharf in their launch which I declined. We were tired and wanted to rest and clean up before going ashore.
Just before noon we called a water taxi over from the pier and rode into Livingston. A short walk to Raul Veliz’s office where he awaited us with all our documents prepared. A couple of signatures and we were cleared. Raul arranged for a quick ride to the Port Captain’s office where Lt. Morales had the ship’s papers ready for my stamp and signature. Then with passports and papers in hand (or in the back pack) we went to find some lunch. We choose a small cantina near the wharf and in our broken Spanish ordered some shrimp (a huge serving), with salad and the ever present rice and beans and fresh tortillas. A cold beer and we were a happy crew.
After lunch we walked through the market just to have a stroll. Livingston is a typical Central American village of about 1500 souls. I saw a substantial community of Garifuna blacks who live mostly across the border in Belize. They are descended from an African tribe who ever though slaved never lost there identity and still carry many traditions through to this day.
Back aboard we had a rest then a light meal of salad and fresh fruit. We were still feeling the huge servings from lunch. There was some local entertainment as the village was having a cotillion or beauty contest or something in a restaurant on the water. The sounds of the preaching MC could be clearly heard.
After dinner we watched Shrek 2, although we all dozed alittle. Went to sleep with the sounds of Latin music carrying over the water.
Welcome to Central America
March 18-20, 2009
20 Mar 2009 0151 hrs GMT 2051 hrs local
Lying a hull 2 miles to the south of Queens Cays Belize
Wind 2.9 knots E
Sea State – calm to 1' - Beaufort 2
Air Temp 81.3ºF Barometer 29.97
Partly cloudy
The last 51 hrs have been spent underway. The decision was made to leave Isla Mujeres on the afternoon of the 18th based on our need to be in Guatemala and on a very favorable weather report. The afternoon was spent cleaning and organizing for sea. We hoisted anchor just before 1700 hrs and moved to the fuel docks to take on 360 gallons of diesel. Interesting aside, unlike the pink and blue fuel of the USA the diesel in Mexico is clear. Must be because of the taxes. We cast off lines and started for Guatemala just before 1800 hrs local.
We steamed out of Isla Mujeres anchorage by the small western channel and started to make way down the Mexican coast. Each of us commented on how reluctant we were to leave Isla Mujeres. Aeon and I will be back there after Second Star is painted to spend so time just getting to know the area.
Cancun passed at sunset and looks like a cross between Las Vegas and Miami. The beach front high rises go on mile after mile.
Tulum passed in the pre dawn darkness and sunrise brought mile after mile of white sand beaches with the Mexican scrub pressing hard against the dunes. All along the way there were small fishing villages interspersed with larger towns. Harry kept cell phone contact intermittently for most of the day.
The night was smooth and calm; unlike our previous passages this one seemed almost surreal it was so benign. The weather and the sea state continued with us as we slipped further South. Hour after hour the engines hummed and the coast line spooled by like a rolled up back drop. Sometimes our speed exactly match the small following swells and if you didn’t look at the shore you had the sense of standing still.
As darkness fell we were approaching the Northern border of Belize. Second Star was averaging 7.9 knots on less than 2 gallons per hour. All systems are functioning and we are living on the high seas.
With the addition of our fourth crew member I was able to adjust our deck watches from 1 hr on, 1 hr off , 1 hr on standby to 2 hours on 4 hours off. We are much more rested crew. With the calm sea state I was able to bring the auto pilot online, hence the fourth crew member. Watch is now much improved with the freedom to leave the helm and attend to other duties from time to time.
Sunrise on the 20th found us just North of English Cay Belize. The sea was so calm that I decided to stay outside the reef and pass between it and Turneffe Island. I didn’t call for relief as the crew was tired and I was fully awake. Over the next hour or so Harry then aeon showed up on the bridge. We all commented on how calm the sea was. The day was full of turtles, dolphins, miles of reef and numerous small fishing boats plying the inside of the reef.
After lunch Harry and I did some fishing. I left Harry to attend to some matter when Harry hooked up a very nice yellow fin tuna. Mother ocean just provided us with dinner.
We were making such good progress that when I recalculated our arrival time in Guatemala it was to early in the morning. We hove to mid afternoon to do some snorkeling and some more fishing. Aeon snorkeled all around the boat as we drifted along parallel to the reef and Harry tried to catch grouper. After a couple of hours I moved us on towards the Queen Cays where I hoped to be able to penetrate the reef and anchor for dinner. By the time we arrived at the destination the sun had slipped behind some clouds and I lackerd the visibility to make a safe entrance so we steamed 2 miles offshore and hove to.
The yellow fin was lightly seared in sesame oil, topped with a coconut milk and panang curry sauce, served over rice with a coulisse of papaya, onion, banana, tomato, marinated cucumber and avocado. It was our first fish dinner, fresh caught while underway. Very tasty fare.
Harry and aeon went to bed after dinner and I am catching up on the logs. In about 40 minutes I am rousing aeon, starting the mains and getting underway for Livingston, Guatemala. If I have planned correctly we will arrive around 0800 hrs tomorrow, clear customs and head up the Rio Dulce for Abel’s ship yard.
Aeon has the first watch, followed by myself then Harry. That rotation puts me back when we enter the harbor.
Lying a hull 2 miles to the south of Queens Cays Belize
Wind 2.9 knots E
Sea State – calm to 1' - Beaufort 2
Air Temp 81.3ºF Barometer 29.97
Partly cloudy
The last 51 hrs have been spent underway. The decision was made to leave Isla Mujeres on the afternoon of the 18th based on our need to be in Guatemala and on a very favorable weather report. The afternoon was spent cleaning and organizing for sea. We hoisted anchor just before 1700 hrs and moved to the fuel docks to take on 360 gallons of diesel. Interesting aside, unlike the pink and blue fuel of the USA the diesel in Mexico is clear. Must be because of the taxes. We cast off lines and started for Guatemala just before 1800 hrs local.
We steamed out of Isla Mujeres anchorage by the small western channel and started to make way down the Mexican coast. Each of us commented on how reluctant we were to leave Isla Mujeres. Aeon and I will be back there after Second Star is painted to spend so time just getting to know the area.
Cancun passed at sunset and looks like a cross between Las Vegas and Miami. The beach front high rises go on mile after mile.
Tulum passed in the pre dawn darkness and sunrise brought mile after mile of white sand beaches with the Mexican scrub pressing hard against the dunes. All along the way there were small fishing villages interspersed with larger towns. Harry kept cell phone contact intermittently for most of the day.
The night was smooth and calm; unlike our previous passages this one seemed almost surreal it was so benign. The weather and the sea state continued with us as we slipped further South. Hour after hour the engines hummed and the coast line spooled by like a rolled up back drop. Sometimes our speed exactly match the small following swells and if you didn’t look at the shore you had the sense of standing still.
As darkness fell we were approaching the Northern border of Belize. Second Star was averaging 7.9 knots on less than 2 gallons per hour. All systems are functioning and we are living on the high seas.
With the addition of our fourth crew member I was able to adjust our deck watches from 1 hr on, 1 hr off , 1 hr on standby to 2 hours on 4 hours off. We are much more rested crew. With the calm sea state I was able to bring the auto pilot online, hence the fourth crew member. Watch is now much improved with the freedom to leave the helm and attend to other duties from time to time.
Sunrise on the 20th found us just North of English Cay Belize. The sea was so calm that I decided to stay outside the reef and pass between it and Turneffe Island. I didn’t call for relief as the crew was tired and I was fully awake. Over the next hour or so Harry then aeon showed up on the bridge. We all commented on how calm the sea was. The day was full of turtles, dolphins, miles of reef and numerous small fishing boats plying the inside of the reef.
After lunch Harry and I did some fishing. I left Harry to attend to some matter when Harry hooked up a very nice yellow fin tuna. Mother ocean just provided us with dinner.
We were making such good progress that when I recalculated our arrival time in Guatemala it was to early in the morning. We hove to mid afternoon to do some snorkeling and some more fishing. Aeon snorkeled all around the boat as we drifted along parallel to the reef and Harry tried to catch grouper. After a couple of hours I moved us on towards the Queen Cays where I hoped to be able to penetrate the reef and anchor for dinner. By the time we arrived at the destination the sun had slipped behind some clouds and I lackerd the visibility to make a safe entrance so we steamed 2 miles offshore and hove to.
The yellow fin was lightly seared in sesame oil, topped with a coconut milk and panang curry sauce, served over rice with a coulisse of papaya, onion, banana, tomato, marinated cucumber and avocado. It was our first fish dinner, fresh caught while underway. Very tasty fare.
Harry and aeon went to bed after dinner and I am catching up on the logs. In about 40 minutes I am rousing aeon, starting the mains and getting underway for Livingston, Guatemala. If I have planned correctly we will arrive around 0800 hrs tomorrow, clear customs and head up the Rio Dulce for Abel’s ship yard.
Aeon has the first watch, followed by myself then Harry. That rotation puts me back when we enter the harbor.
Monday, March 16, 2009
March 14-15, 2009
14 and 15 Mar 2009 2012 hrs GMT 102 hrs local
Lat 21º 14.78' N Long 86º 44.70' W
At anchor Isla Mujeres Harbor Mexico
Wind 11.0 knots E by ESE
Sea State – less than 1' - Beaufort 1
Air Temp 80.3ºF Barometer 30.10
Clear
We left Cuba at 1205 hrs local on the 14th. The German sailboat Hedwig had left about an hour and 15 minutes ahead of us. We set up our lines and made a most seamanlike departure.
The day was beautiful and sea close in was flat and calm. We all enjoyed the ride from the flying bridge. Even after we had cleared the sea buoy and started to cross the Yucatan Channel it was a very pleasant ride: seas 2 to 3 with a following wind. The Yucatan Channel is a very busy shipping lane so we keep a constant radar vigil on the numerous target which surrounded us. When ever I thought it was prudent I would hail Hedwig on the VHF and give him updates on speed and bearing regarding targets that might pass close to him.
As the afternoon passed into evening the Gulf Stream again pressed her weight upon on course and we found ourselves slogging through 4 to 6 foot rollers on the port stern quarter and a current set that at times during the crossing knocked us down to 2 knots over speed over the ground. The Gulf Stream is one of the oceans mighty rivers.
Towards sunset the port engine began to stumble a little every half hour or so. Nothing critical, a hundred RPM’s or so then come back up and run like clock. It brought back all the feelings I had when I had my airplane and the engine would hick up. The pucker factor was ratcheting up. I don’t mind a problem that I can understand the cause and effect, but this one had no apparent cause.
Harry, aeon and I brainstormed the whole fuel system, reviewed each fuel transfer: nothing. Everything is the same as it has been for the last four years. I had changed the fuel filters in Cuba and the vacuum gauge showed to obstructions. We must have a gremlin aboard.
As evening wore into night and darkness fell, as it can only fall on a moonlit night sea, the stumbling increased in frequency and rpms.
Then the port engine stumbled and failed. Harry and went to engine room while aeon took over the helm. I present the highest praise for my crew. Aeon helmsman ship in those conditions with only one engine was superb high enough and Harry stood sweating and nauseated with me in the engine as we bleed and revived the port engine.
Once we had power again Harry and I tried to solve this mystery. We went back down and rigged a cool air duct to blow directly on the fuel injection pump because the symptoms were very much like vapor lock. That didn’t work. We lost the port engine again. Another bleed and restart. This was turning into a long night. After discussion I decided to use both lift pumps in series to see if increased flow would solve the problem.
Both engines came up and purred like contented cats before a fire. We reorganized the night watch and I went to bed for an hours sleep. Silence and Harry saying “Captain we have lost both engines”. Instant awake and into the engine room while Second Star rolled in the swells. Both fuel filter cans where empty. A check of the day tank sight glass showed plenty of fuel, the valves on the fuel manifolds where in their proper position. No fuel leaks evident in the builges. WHAT THE HELL!
Again another reprime: boost pump the filter cans full, bleed and restart each engine. The only good thing out of this so far is that Harry and I can reprime and restart both engines now in 5 minutes.
I set a 15 minute engine room watch. This reveals that we are draining the fuel filter cans at an extraordinary rate. We start to refill the cans underway every hour and both engines purr on through the wee hours fighting to wrest ground from the Gulf Stream. We are winning but at times it seems like a slug fest. Again I make decisions based on SOG vs. heading. Two hours later we lose both engines again. The filters are draining faster now. Another restart. If this was Olympic event The crew of Second Star would be medalists. By a vigilant regimen of the filters we are able to keep the engines running as the sun rises are we begin thje final approach towards Isla Mujeres.
All of this has gone on while we are tracking upwards of 12 large ships at a time passing around us and Hedwig. We plotted a passing for Hedwig that was within a ¼ mile of a oil tanker and one for Second Star that required a course change to avoid collision.
Second Star is running well with constant attention. Frigate birds are appearing in ever growing numbers as well as dolphins. Mexico lies just over the horizon. Final land is sighted.
We took the northern approach, rounding the headland and out of the grip of the Gulf Stream and her waves. There is a whole fleet of sport fisherman heading out for the day as we steam towards the harbor.
Anchor goes down, we choose to shut off the engines and we have arrived.
The Mexican courtesy and Q flags are set. I order showers and a nap for all.
Hedwig arrives after we are rested and anchors aft of us on our port side. Brief exchange and the Germans disappear for some sleep. I think they had a rough crossing.
After catching up on our logs, we launch the dinghy and go into town for a stroll and dinner. After a very pleasant meal topped off with a gelato cone we return to Second Star. It is a serene evening and the frustrations of the previous night are just a memory as we call it a day and go to bed.
Lat 21º 14.78' N Long 86º 44.70' W
At anchor Isla Mujeres Harbor Mexico
Wind 11.0 knots E by ESE
Sea State – less than 1' - Beaufort 1
Air Temp 80.3ºF Barometer 30.10
Clear
We left Cuba at 1205 hrs local on the 14th. The German sailboat Hedwig had left about an hour and 15 minutes ahead of us. We set up our lines and made a most seamanlike departure.
The day was beautiful and sea close in was flat and calm. We all enjoyed the ride from the flying bridge. Even after we had cleared the sea buoy and started to cross the Yucatan Channel it was a very pleasant ride: seas 2 to 3 with a following wind. The Yucatan Channel is a very busy shipping lane so we keep a constant radar vigil on the numerous target which surrounded us. When ever I thought it was prudent I would hail Hedwig on the VHF and give him updates on speed and bearing regarding targets that might pass close to him.
As the afternoon passed into evening the Gulf Stream again pressed her weight upon on course and we found ourselves slogging through 4 to 6 foot rollers on the port stern quarter and a current set that at times during the crossing knocked us down to 2 knots over speed over the ground. The Gulf Stream is one of the oceans mighty rivers.
Towards sunset the port engine began to stumble a little every half hour or so. Nothing critical, a hundred RPM’s or so then come back up and run like clock. It brought back all the feelings I had when I had my airplane and the engine would hick up. The pucker factor was ratcheting up. I don’t mind a problem that I can understand the cause and effect, but this one had no apparent cause.
Harry, aeon and I brainstormed the whole fuel system, reviewed each fuel transfer: nothing. Everything is the same as it has been for the last four years. I had changed the fuel filters in Cuba and the vacuum gauge showed to obstructions. We must have a gremlin aboard.
As evening wore into night and darkness fell, as it can only fall on a moonlit night sea, the stumbling increased in frequency and rpms.
Then the port engine stumbled and failed. Harry and went to engine room while aeon took over the helm. I present the highest praise for my crew. Aeon helmsman ship in those conditions with only one engine was superb high enough and Harry stood sweating and nauseated with me in the engine as we bleed and revived the port engine.
Once we had power again Harry and I tried to solve this mystery. We went back down and rigged a cool air duct to blow directly on the fuel injection pump because the symptoms were very much like vapor lock. That didn’t work. We lost the port engine again. Another bleed and restart. This was turning into a long night. After discussion I decided to use both lift pumps in series to see if increased flow would solve the problem.
Both engines came up and purred like contented cats before a fire. We reorganized the night watch and I went to bed for an hours sleep. Silence and Harry saying “Captain we have lost both engines”. Instant awake and into the engine room while Second Star rolled in the swells. Both fuel filter cans where empty. A check of the day tank sight glass showed plenty of fuel, the valves on the fuel manifolds where in their proper position. No fuel leaks evident in the builges. WHAT THE HELL!
Again another reprime: boost pump the filter cans full, bleed and restart each engine. The only good thing out of this so far is that Harry and I can reprime and restart both engines now in 5 minutes.
I set a 15 minute engine room watch. This reveals that we are draining the fuel filter cans at an extraordinary rate. We start to refill the cans underway every hour and both engines purr on through the wee hours fighting to wrest ground from the Gulf Stream. We are winning but at times it seems like a slug fest. Again I make decisions based on SOG vs. heading. Two hours later we lose both engines again. The filters are draining faster now. Another restart. If this was Olympic event The crew of Second Star would be medalists. By a vigilant regimen of the filters we are able to keep the engines running as the sun rises are we begin thje final approach towards Isla Mujeres.
All of this has gone on while we are tracking upwards of 12 large ships at a time passing around us and Hedwig. We plotted a passing for Hedwig that was within a ¼ mile of a oil tanker and one for Second Star that required a course change to avoid collision.
Second Star is running well with constant attention. Frigate birds are appearing in ever growing numbers as well as dolphins. Mexico lies just over the horizon. Final land is sighted.
We took the northern approach, rounding the headland and out of the grip of the Gulf Stream and her waves. There is a whole fleet of sport fisherman heading out for the day as we steam towards the harbor.
Anchor goes down, we choose to shut off the engines and we have arrived.
The Mexican courtesy and Q flags are set. I order showers and a nap for all.
Hedwig arrives after we are rested and anchors aft of us on our port side. Brief exchange and the Germans disappear for some sleep. I think they had a rough crossing.
After catching up on our logs, we launch the dinghy and go into town for a stroll and dinner. After a very pleasant meal topped off with a gelato cone we return to Second Star. It is a serene evening and the frustrations of the previous night are just a memory as we call it a day and go to bed.
March 13, 2009
13 Mar 2009 1710 hrs GMT 1410 hrs local
Lat 21º 51.32' N Long 84º 48.87' W
Docked Cabo San Antonio, Cuba
Wind 15.6 knots E
Sea State – 1' to 2' - Beaufort 5
Air Temp 77.8ºF Barometer 30.86
Clear
I made the decision to land at Cabo San Antonio to see ifwe could ascertain the issues with the fuel transfer, before we crossed the Yucatan Channel.
Cuba, at last. We arrived at Cabo San Antonio light just before 0300hrs local time after a very beautiful cruise close to the Cuban coast. In less than 20 meters of water the Gulf Stream lost its grip on us and we sailed along at 7.7 knots with a following sea. The moon was settling into the western horizon and the illumination was serene.
The final approach was a little stressful as all the markers were missing from the sea buoy to the harbor entrance. We very cautiously felt our way along the charted channel hoping that the last few hurricanes that hit Cuba and wiped out the marks hadn’t also barred the channel. All was well when we were hailed by the Guardia de Frontera on the VHF welcoming us to Cuba. As we approached the dock there were two Cubanos there to direct us in and handle our lines. Engine shutdown at 0440hrs local and we all fell into bed for a few hours of well deserved rest.
The Immigration and Customs came aboard at 0900 hrs and we went through a lengthy but cordial inspection. We were now free to come ashore.
We had a breakfast at the restaurant, cooked by the woman/Immigration Officer. This end of Cuba is very low and mostly unpopulated. We saw maybe 15 people, all young men and the one woman .
Harry and I worked on trying to solve the mystery of the fuel transfer to no avail. All seems well. I am puzzled.
Two sailboats arrived during the morning, one from England the other Dutch with 3 children aboard.
We spent the day in a sleep deprived fog getting Second Star ready to wrestle with the Gulf Stream again as we planned to cross the Yucatan Channel on the following day. A 30’ sailboat with two german men aboard asked if they could cross with us. I made certain that they understood that I would be happy to stay in contact as best we could, them radar updates on shipping traffic, etc; but that I would not be responsible for their crossing. They gratefully accepted my terms.
We asked about going to Havana by car or bus but it was a long ride and we all wanted to rest as much as possible. So we spent the day puttering aboard, chatting with Cubans and thee other boaters and resting. Dinner was the fresh grouper Harry had caught in the Dry Tortugas over rice and a nice bottle of chardonnay. It was excellent. Eve gave it her enthusiastic approval but begging for more.
Lat 21º 51.32' N Long 84º 48.87' W
Docked Cabo San Antonio, Cuba
Wind 15.6 knots E
Sea State – 1' to 2' - Beaufort 5
Air Temp 77.8ºF Barometer 30.86
Clear
I made the decision to land at Cabo San Antonio to see ifwe could ascertain the issues with the fuel transfer, before we crossed the Yucatan Channel.
Cuba, at last. We arrived at Cabo San Antonio light just before 0300hrs local time after a very beautiful cruise close to the Cuban coast. In less than 20 meters of water the Gulf Stream lost its grip on us and we sailed along at 7.7 knots with a following sea. The moon was settling into the western horizon and the illumination was serene.
The final approach was a little stressful as all the markers were missing from the sea buoy to the harbor entrance. We very cautiously felt our way along the charted channel hoping that the last few hurricanes that hit Cuba and wiped out the marks hadn’t also barred the channel. All was well when we were hailed by the Guardia de Frontera on the VHF welcoming us to Cuba. As we approached the dock there were two Cubanos there to direct us in and handle our lines. Engine shutdown at 0440hrs local and we all fell into bed for a few hours of well deserved rest.
The Immigration and Customs came aboard at 0900 hrs and we went through a lengthy but cordial inspection. We were now free to come ashore.
We had a breakfast at the restaurant, cooked by the woman/Immigration Officer. This end of Cuba is very low and mostly unpopulated. We saw maybe 15 people, all young men and the one woman .
Harry and I worked on trying to solve the mystery of the fuel transfer to no avail. All seems well. I am puzzled.
Two sailboats arrived during the morning, one from England the other Dutch with 3 children aboard.
We spent the day in a sleep deprived fog getting Second Star ready to wrestle with the Gulf Stream again as we planned to cross the Yucatan Channel on the following day. A 30’ sailboat with two german men aboard asked if they could cross with us. I made certain that they understood that I would be happy to stay in contact as best we could, them radar updates on shipping traffic, etc; but that I would not be responsible for their crossing. They gratefully accepted my terms.
We asked about going to Havana by car or bus but it was a long ride and we all wanted to rest as much as possible. So we spent the day puttering aboard, chatting with Cubans and thee other boaters and resting. Dinner was the fresh grouper Harry had caught in the Dry Tortugas over rice and a nice bottle of chardonnay. It was excellent. Eve gave it her enthusiastic approval but begging for more.
March 12, 2009
12 Mar 2009 1730 hrs GMT 1330 hrs local
Lat 22º 36.732' N Long 84°14.614' W
Underway, making way off the N coast of Cuba
Wind 17.7 knots E
Sea State – 4’ to 6' - Beaufort 6
Air Temp 77.6ºF Barometer 30.29
Scattered clouds
What a longgggg crossing of the Straits. After midnight the seas continued to build to a solid six feet with and occasional 8 to 10 footer thrown in to test our resolve. At no time was Second Star endangered, but her crew was tense and uncomfortable. We couldn’t alter course enough to take the seas fully astern because the strength of the Gulf Stream would knock out speed over the ground (SOG) down to a crawl so we suffered with a aft quartering sea on our port. It was the best compromise between comfort and headway, which as in most compromises it delivers neither very well.
Eve hunkered down under my pillow on our bed and suffered the most of all. I hope she gets used to cruising as much as she has gotten used to loi9ving on board. She seems to really enjoy being at anchor, what with all the new smells and wildlife to keep her attention. And of course the fresh fish scraps and long cat naps in the sun on the aft deck.
The Gulf Stream was affecting our SOG substantially as well as the toll on our progress from the waves. What should have been a 16 hoiur crossing was going to be much longer. At 0330 hrs I decided do a fuel transfer from the forward main tank to the day tank. Harry and I initiated the procedure and immediately lost the prime in the main fuel filters and both engines went down leaving us not under command and wallowing. All hands were called. Aeon went to the helm while15 minutes of hot nausea inducing work by Harry and I brought the starboard main up which gave us steerage. The port followed 15 minutes later. Followed by my dinner. A modification to the procedure and we successfully transferred fuel and went back on ouu three hour watch rotation.
The rest of the night was spent under a full moon watching the vessel traffic on the radar and waiting to sight the coast of Cuba. Finally mid morning the mountains of Cuba could be discerned through the haze.
All day sailed against the Gulf Stream but now we had a following sea which improved the ride dramatically. We were running well albeit slowly against the Stream and proceeded up the coast of Cuba and around the San Justias light. Finally into much calmer waters and with the diminishing effects of the Gulf Stream our SOG came up nicely. this is more like the cruise we were expecting. I ordered extra naps for the crew along with hot showers which refreshed everyone. Dinner was lasagna with a salad and bread. As we entered our second night it was back on our three hour watch schedule making way for Cabo San Antonio.
Lat 22º 36.732' N Long 84°14.614' W
Underway, making way off the N coast of Cuba
Wind 17.7 knots E
Sea State – 4’ to 6' - Beaufort 6
Air Temp 77.6ºF Barometer 30.29
Scattered clouds
What a longgggg crossing of the Straits. After midnight the seas continued to build to a solid six feet with and occasional 8 to 10 footer thrown in to test our resolve. At no time was Second Star endangered, but her crew was tense and uncomfortable. We couldn’t alter course enough to take the seas fully astern because the strength of the Gulf Stream would knock out speed over the ground (SOG) down to a crawl so we suffered with a aft quartering sea on our port. It was the best compromise between comfort and headway, which as in most compromises it delivers neither very well.
Eve hunkered down under my pillow on our bed and suffered the most of all. I hope she gets used to cruising as much as she has gotten used to loi9ving on board. She seems to really enjoy being at anchor, what with all the new smells and wildlife to keep her attention. And of course the fresh fish scraps and long cat naps in the sun on the aft deck.
The Gulf Stream was affecting our SOG substantially as well as the toll on our progress from the waves. What should have been a 16 hoiur crossing was going to be much longer. At 0330 hrs I decided do a fuel transfer from the forward main tank to the day tank. Harry and I initiated the procedure and immediately lost the prime in the main fuel filters and both engines went down leaving us not under command and wallowing. All hands were called. Aeon went to the helm while15 minutes of hot nausea inducing work by Harry and I brought the starboard main up which gave us steerage. The port followed 15 minutes later. Followed by my dinner. A modification to the procedure and we successfully transferred fuel and went back on ouu three hour watch rotation.
The rest of the night was spent under a full moon watching the vessel traffic on the radar and waiting to sight the coast of Cuba. Finally mid morning the mountains of Cuba could be discerned through the haze.
All day sailed against the Gulf Stream but now we had a following sea which improved the ride dramatically. We were running well albeit slowly against the Stream and proceeded up the coast of Cuba and around the San Justias light. Finally into much calmer waters and with the diminishing effects of the Gulf Stream our SOG came up nicely. this is more like the cruise we were expecting. I ordered extra naps for the crew along with hot showers which refreshed everyone. Dinner was lasagna with a salad and bread. As we entered our second night it was back on our three hour watch schedule making way for Cabo San Antonio.
March 11, 2009
12 Mar 2009 1730 hrs GMT 1330 hrs local
Lat 21º 53.16' N Long 84°48.47' W
Docked at Cabo San Antonio Cuba
Wind 17.7 knots E
Sea State – 1' to 2' - Beaufort 6
Air Temp 77.6ºF Barometer 30.29
Scattered clouds
What a longgggg crossing of the Straits. After midnight the seas continued to build to a solid six feet with and occasional 8 to 10 footer thrown in to test our resolve. At no time was Second Star endangered, but her crew was tense and uncomfortable. We couldn’t alter course enough to take the seas fully astern because the strength of the Gulf Stream would knock out speed over the ground (SOG) down to a crawl so we suffered with a aft quartering sea on our port. It was the best compromise between comfort and headway, which as in most compromises it delivers neither very well.
Eve hunkered down under my pillow on our bed and suffered the most of all. I hope she gets used to cruising as much as she has gotten used to living on board. She seems to really enjoy being at anchor, what with all the new smells and wildlife to keep her attention. And of course the fresh fish scraps and long cat naps in the sun on the aft deck.
The Gulf Stream was affecting our SOG substantially as well as the toll on our progress from the waves. What should have been a 16 hour crossing was going to be much longer. At 0330 hrs I decided do a fuel transfer from the forward main tank to the day tank. Harry and I initiated the procedure and immediately lost the prime in the main fuel filters and both engines went down leaving us not under command and wallowing. All hands were called. Aeon went to the helm while15 minutes of hot nausea inducing work by Harry and I brought the starboard main up which gave us steerage. The port followed 15 minutes later. Followed by my dinner. A modification to the procedure and we successfully transferred fuel and went back on ouu three hour watch rotation.
The rest of the night was spent under a full moon watching the vessel traffic on the radar and waiting to sight the coast of Cuba. Finally mid morning the mountains of Cuba could be discerned through the haze.
All day sailed against the Gulf Stream but now we had a following sea which improved the ride dramatically. We were running well albeit slowly against the Stream and proceeded up the coast of Cuba and around the San Justias light. Finally into much calmer waters and with the diminishing effects of the Gulf Stream our SOG came up nicely. this is more like the cruise we were expecting. I ordered extra naps for the crew along with hot showers which refreshed everyone. Dinner was lasagna with a salad and bread. As we entered our second night it was back on our three hour watch schedule making way for Cabo San Antonio.
Lat 21º 53.16' N Long 84°48.47' W
Docked at Cabo San Antonio Cuba
Wind 17.7 knots E
Sea State – 1' to 2' - Beaufort 6
Air Temp 77.6ºF Barometer 30.29
Scattered clouds
What a longgggg crossing of the Straits. After midnight the seas continued to build to a solid six feet with and occasional 8 to 10 footer thrown in to test our resolve. At no time was Second Star endangered, but her crew was tense and uncomfortable. We couldn’t alter course enough to take the seas fully astern because the strength of the Gulf Stream would knock out speed over the ground (SOG) down to a crawl so we suffered with a aft quartering sea on our port. It was the best compromise between comfort and headway, which as in most compromises it delivers neither very well.
Eve hunkered down under my pillow on our bed and suffered the most of all. I hope she gets used to cruising as much as she has gotten used to living on board. She seems to really enjoy being at anchor, what with all the new smells and wildlife to keep her attention. And of course the fresh fish scraps and long cat naps in the sun on the aft deck.
The Gulf Stream was affecting our SOG substantially as well as the toll on our progress from the waves. What should have been a 16 hour crossing was going to be much longer. At 0330 hrs I decided do a fuel transfer from the forward main tank to the day tank. Harry and I initiated the procedure and immediately lost the prime in the main fuel filters and both engines went down leaving us not under command and wallowing. All hands were called. Aeon went to the helm while15 minutes of hot nausea inducing work by Harry and I brought the starboard main up which gave us steerage. The port followed 15 minutes later. Followed by my dinner. A modification to the procedure and we successfully transferred fuel and went back on ouu three hour watch rotation.
The rest of the night was spent under a full moon watching the vessel traffic on the radar and waiting to sight the coast of Cuba. Finally mid morning the mountains of Cuba could be discerned through the haze.
All day sailed against the Gulf Stream but now we had a following sea which improved the ride dramatically. We were running well albeit slowly against the Stream and proceeded up the coast of Cuba and around the San Justias light. Finally into much calmer waters and with the diminishing effects of the Gulf Stream our SOG came up nicely. this is more like the cruise we were expecting. I ordered extra naps for the crew along with hot showers which refreshed everyone. Dinner was lasagna with a salad and bread. As we entered our second night it was back on our three hour watch schedule making way for Cabo San Antonio.
March 10, 2009
10 Mar 2009 1530 hrs GMT (almost sunset) 1130 hrs local
Lat 24º 37.53' N Long 82°52.214' W
At anchor Key West Florida Man O War Harbor
Wind 12.9 knots NE by E
Sea State – 1' to 2' - Beaufort 5
Air Temp 71.8ºF Barometer 30.22
Clear with a few scattered clouds
Up early to have a look at Ft. Jefferson before the tourist ferries arrive. Sent Ralph off to fish, Barbara stayed aboard to read and relax and the Second Star crew took Tink and headed to the Fort. As we came ashore an officer from the Florida Fish and Wildlife approached us with lots of questions about who we were and where we came from and who was aboard. aeon referred to it as an encountered with the “no-fun Police”.. I must say I agree; to have to deal with a fully armed and armored wildlife law enforcement officer who was acting more like homeland security was certainly unpleasant. That aside the Fort was an interesting place. With history as a Fort and a prison. We went back to Second Star when the tourist ferries arrived and unloaded a couple of hundred people.
We called Ralph on the VHF and he returned to pick up Harry so they could go fishing while aeon and I prepared Second Star for a early afternoon departure to cross the Straights of Florida bound for Cabo San Antonio Cuba.
1430 hrs local we called Ralph and Harry back from fishing. Harry brought back a nice Red Grouper in the 8 to 10 pound range. A quick fillet on the aft deck and we had two meals of fresh fish waiting for us in the reefer. While Harry was filleting his catch he saw what he thought was a Nurse Shark lurking under Second Star’s transom. As we watched it it proved to be a Goliath Grouper of about 150 to 200 pounds. We decided he was a resident who cruised the anchorage waiting for fish scraps. Harry feed him the grouper carcass which he inhaled whole.
We loaded Ralph and Barbara and all our trash aboard Ralph’s boat and waved goodbye as they began their run back to Key West. We certainly enjoyed their company and hospitality. They have been very helpful in our preparations in Key West. See you guys in Central America.
We hoisted anchor and while aeon steered us out to the Southwest channel, Harry and I secured the foredeck for sea. 1530 hrs local saw us headed for Cuba.
The first watch was a very pleasant sail over sparkling blue water and 2’ to 4’ seas. Dinner was baked Mac and Cheese consumed underway as the sun went down and seas started to come up. It looked like we might be in for an interesting night. A full moon came up early and lit the Straights beautifully as we settled into our sea watch routine: one hour in bed, one hour snoozing with the helmsman and one hour on the helm.
Lat 24º 37.53' N Long 82°52.214' W
At anchor Key West Florida Man O War Harbor
Wind 12.9 knots NE by E
Sea State – 1' to 2' - Beaufort 5
Air Temp 71.8ºF Barometer 30.22
Clear with a few scattered clouds
Up early to have a look at Ft. Jefferson before the tourist ferries arrive. Sent Ralph off to fish, Barbara stayed aboard to read and relax and the Second Star crew took Tink and headed to the Fort. As we came ashore an officer from the Florida Fish and Wildlife approached us with lots of questions about who we were and where we came from and who was aboard. aeon referred to it as an encountered with the “no-fun Police”.. I must say I agree; to have to deal with a fully armed and armored wildlife law enforcement officer who was acting more like homeland security was certainly unpleasant. That aside the Fort was an interesting place. With history as a Fort and a prison. We went back to Second Star when the tourist ferries arrived and unloaded a couple of hundred people.
We called Ralph on the VHF and he returned to pick up Harry so they could go fishing while aeon and I prepared Second Star for a early afternoon departure to cross the Straights of Florida bound for Cabo San Antonio Cuba.
1430 hrs local we called Ralph and Harry back from fishing. Harry brought back a nice Red Grouper in the 8 to 10 pound range. A quick fillet on the aft deck and we had two meals of fresh fish waiting for us in the reefer. While Harry was filleting his catch he saw what he thought was a Nurse Shark lurking under Second Star’s transom. As we watched it it proved to be a Goliath Grouper of about 150 to 200 pounds. We decided he was a resident who cruised the anchorage waiting for fish scraps. Harry feed him the grouper carcass which he inhaled whole.
We loaded Ralph and Barbara and all our trash aboard Ralph’s boat and waved goodbye as they began their run back to Key West. We certainly enjoyed their company and hospitality. They have been very helpful in our preparations in Key West. See you guys in Central America.
We hoisted anchor and while aeon steered us out to the Southwest channel, Harry and I secured the foredeck for sea. 1530 hrs local saw us headed for Cuba.
The first watch was a very pleasant sail over sparkling blue water and 2’ to 4’ seas. Dinner was baked Mac and Cheese consumed underway as the sun went down and seas started to come up. It looked like we might be in for an interesting night. A full moon came up early and lit the Straights beautifully as we settled into our sea watch routine: one hour in bed, one hour snoozing with the helmsman and one hour on the helm.
March 9, 2009
09 Mar 2009 0335 hrs GMT 2335 hrs local
Lat 24º 37.53' N Long 82º 52.214' W
At anchor Dry Tortugas, FL SSE Ft Jefferson
Wind 11.1 knots E by ESE
Sea State – 1' - Beaufort 5
Air Temp 73.11F Barometer 30.22
Clear
Up at 0530 hrs on our final day linked to the US mainland. Begin final prep for departure, check courses, short haul the anchor chain for a quick release, verify all systems. Main engines star at 0730 hrs. All systems online by 0745 hrs. Looks like a go.
Ralph and Barbara arrived in their boat shortly after sunrise. After transferring them and there gear aboard we secured Ralph’s Cobia behind Second Star and broke the anchor free at 0810 hrs. With the main engines engaged we were now officially “underway, making way”. Almost nine of work was coming to fruition.
While Harry and Ralph secured the anchor I maneuvered Second star out of the anchorage and into the main ship’s channel south past the end of Key West. When aeon joined me on the bridge I handed the helm over to her with course and heading instructions. An emotional moment that would reoccur several more times during the day.
At the northern sea buoy we took up a course or 271º, due W that would take us just N of the Marquesas the a turn slightly S to the Dry Tortugas. The day was beautiful with a following sea and fair winds we rolled along at 7 knots. Along the way were escorted by various pods and solitary dolphins, loggerhead sea turtles lolled on the surface heads raised to watch us pass, even a very large spotted eagle leapt from the surface of the sea at our passing.
As we moved along W I made calls to family to say goodbye, before we reached the limits of cell phone range. A very emotional time for me. It made me reflect on earlier times communication across distance was not so convenient or instantaneous. I tried to imagine what it must have been like when a letter took six months to get from NY to San Francisco. Made being out of touch for 5 or 6 days seem okay.
The Dry Tortugas showed up on radar just after 1700hrs and came into visual range shortly thereafter. The approach to the anchorage is a tortuous one for first timers. It actually winds around 360°. Once inside we worked our way to an clear spot and set the hook. We have arrived with main engine shutdown just after 1930 hrs local.
A beautiful evening with sunset and moonrise. Aeon and Barb made fresh gulf shrimp enchiladas. All in all a very fulfilling and wonderful day that official begins the journey.
Appendum: 10 March 0730 hrs local
The wind picked up over night and anchorage got a little roily. So about 0200 hrs I got up and set the radar watch. About 40 minutes later I got up again because I heard someone on deck. It was Ralph. He was on the aft deck . As joined him he said “my boat is gone” and he was right. It must of just come lose because it was about 50 yards aft and drifting through the anchorage towards the fort. I roused the crew to an emergency launch of the tender. With real efficiency everyone fell to the task and within 15 minutes the tender in the water and Ralph and I were on the way to retrieve the Cobia. I am sure Ralph’s heart was in his throat as we moved towards his anchor light in the dark. We found the Cobia, sitting bow upon the beach waiting for us. We attached a line to the stern and Ralph jump aboard. With a couple a tugs she was free and on her way back to Second Star. A very interesting interruption to sleep.
Lat 24º 37.53' N Long 82º 52.214' W
At anchor Dry Tortugas, FL SSE Ft Jefferson
Wind 11.1 knots E by ESE
Sea State – 1' - Beaufort 5
Air Temp 73.11F Barometer 30.22
Clear
Up at 0530 hrs on our final day linked to the US mainland. Begin final prep for departure, check courses, short haul the anchor chain for a quick release, verify all systems. Main engines star at 0730 hrs. All systems online by 0745 hrs. Looks like a go.
Ralph and Barbara arrived in their boat shortly after sunrise. After transferring them and there gear aboard we secured Ralph’s Cobia behind Second Star and broke the anchor free at 0810 hrs. With the main engines engaged we were now officially “underway, making way”. Almost nine of work was coming to fruition.
While Harry and Ralph secured the anchor I maneuvered Second star out of the anchorage and into the main ship’s channel south past the end of Key West. When aeon joined me on the bridge I handed the helm over to her with course and heading instructions. An emotional moment that would reoccur several more times during the day.
At the northern sea buoy we took up a course or 271º, due W that would take us just N of the Marquesas the a turn slightly S to the Dry Tortugas. The day was beautiful with a following sea and fair winds we rolled along at 7 knots. Along the way were escorted by various pods and solitary dolphins, loggerhead sea turtles lolled on the surface heads raised to watch us pass, even a very large spotted eagle leapt from the surface of the sea at our passing.
As we moved along W I made calls to family to say goodbye, before we reached the limits of cell phone range. A very emotional time for me. It made me reflect on earlier times communication across distance was not so convenient or instantaneous. I tried to imagine what it must have been like when a letter took six months to get from NY to San Francisco. Made being out of touch for 5 or 6 days seem okay.
The Dry Tortugas showed up on radar just after 1700hrs and came into visual range shortly thereafter. The approach to the anchorage is a tortuous one for first timers. It actually winds around 360°. Once inside we worked our way to an clear spot and set the hook. We have arrived with main engine shutdown just after 1930 hrs local.
A beautiful evening with sunset and moonrise. Aeon and Barb made fresh gulf shrimp enchiladas. All in all a very fulfilling and wonderful day that official begins the journey.
Appendum: 10 March 0730 hrs local
The wind picked up over night and anchorage got a little roily. So about 0200 hrs I got up and set the radar watch. About 40 minutes later I got up again because I heard someone on deck. It was Ralph. He was on the aft deck . As joined him he said “my boat is gone” and he was right. It must of just come lose because it was about 50 yards aft and drifting through the anchorage towards the fort. I roused the crew to an emergency launch of the tender. With real efficiency everyone fell to the task and within 15 minutes the tender in the water and Ralph and I were on the way to retrieve the Cobia. I am sure Ralph’s heart was in his throat as we moved towards his anchor light in the dark. We found the Cobia, sitting bow upon the beach waiting for us. We attached a line to the stern and Ralph jump aboard. With a couple a tugs she was free and on her way back to Second Star. A very interesting interruption to sleep.
March 8, 2009
08 Mar 2009 0302 hrs GMT 2302 hrs local
Lat 24º 34.95' N Long 81º 48.21' W
At anchor Key West Florida Man O War Harbor
Wind 11.0 knots E
Sea State – 1' - Beaufort 4 moderate
Air Temp 76.9ºF Barometer 30.17
Mostly clear with a few clouds
Today aeon and Harry will return on the ferry. The weather window is shaping up well for a Tuesday AM departure. The to do list for sea prep is getting smaller.
This morning I straightened up the overall boat, organized our charts, did some course plotting and then went to Key West. Laundry, internet, drop off the annual USCG Documentation report then meet aeon and Harry for lunch when they got off the ferry was the agenda.
After lunch we came back to Second Star where they unpacked. While aeon and Harry had naps I organized and put away the parts and equipment that Harry brought back from Ft. Myers. It is a little unnerving to think about cutting my supply lines. I hope I have thought of everything or at least all the really important items.
I woke the crew up at 1615 hrs local because we had an invite from our friends in Key West to go to 5:00 Sunday Jazz at the Garden Hotel, then go out for dinner. Lots of people came by the Jazz to wish us Bon Voyage. We had a nice Italian dinner following and got back to Second Star just after 2200 hrs local. A hot shower for all and aeon and Harry went to bed. I am up finishing this log and waiting for the batteries to charge.
As I look out the aft salon windows I see billowing smoke rising from central Key West and drifting to the West over the main shipping channel. Stepping onto the aft deck I can hear sirens and air horns. The smoke looks very ethereal light from below by the lights of Key West and from above by the nearly full moon. I assume I will find out in the morning just what burned.
Lat 24º 34.95' N Long 81º 48.21' W
At anchor Key West Florida Man O War Harbor
Wind 11.0 knots E
Sea State – 1' - Beaufort 4 moderate
Air Temp 76.9ºF Barometer 30.17
Mostly clear with a few clouds
Today aeon and Harry will return on the ferry. The weather window is shaping up well for a Tuesday AM departure. The to do list for sea prep is getting smaller.
This morning I straightened up the overall boat, organized our charts, did some course plotting and then went to Key West. Laundry, internet, drop off the annual USCG Documentation report then meet aeon and Harry for lunch when they got off the ferry was the agenda.
After lunch we came back to Second Star where they unpacked. While aeon and Harry had naps I organized and put away the parts and equipment that Harry brought back from Ft. Myers. It is a little unnerving to think about cutting my supply lines. I hope I have thought of everything or at least all the really important items.
I woke the crew up at 1615 hrs local because we had an invite from our friends in Key West to go to 5:00 Sunday Jazz at the Garden Hotel, then go out for dinner. Lots of people came by the Jazz to wish us Bon Voyage. We had a nice Italian dinner following and got back to Second Star just after 2200 hrs local. A hot shower for all and aeon and Harry went to bed. I am up finishing this log and waiting for the batteries to charge.
As I look out the aft salon windows I see billowing smoke rising from central Key West and drifting to the West over the main shipping channel. Stepping onto the aft deck I can hear sirens and air horns. The smoke looks very ethereal light from below by the lights of Key West and from above by the nearly full moon. I assume I will find out in the morning just what burned.
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
March 5, 2009
05 Mar 2009 2355 hrs GMT (almost sunset) 1755 hrs local
Lat 24º 34.95' N Long 81º 48.21' W
At anchor Key West Florida Man O War Harbor
Wind 21.9 knots N by NE
Sea State – 1' to 2' - Beaufort 6
Air Temp 71.1F Barometer 30.31
Mostly Clear during the day but some cloudiness to the E this evening
This morning was an early one. I got up at 0500 hrs local to replace thee drive belt on the generator and charge the batteries before we left for Key West. Aeon and I had lots of internet to catch up on and some shopping to do. So it meant and early start to the day. I don’t mind because I do so like to watch the sun rise.
Once the batteries were charging I made myself some breakfast; the usual oatmeal with raisins, juice and a cup of tea. Aeon got up about 0700 hrs and we both sat down with our computers and worked on the logs and the pictures for the blog. I swear that once I get caught up with the pictures I am going to do them daily.
About 1030hrs we put our things away and prepared to head to shore. I had aeon do the generator shutdown sequence so she can learn the system. It is pleasure to work with her because she has a real desire to be a competent mariner. As her Captain as well as her husband I am the first to admit that I am one very lucky fellow to have her as my partner. She loves the sea.
We got into town about 100hrs. Parked Tink (yes, we have named the dinghy’s the 12’ aluminum is Tink and 16’ Skiff is Hook) at the dinghy docks and walked over to the Coffee Plantation Internet Cafe. We ordered some coffee and a croissant and went to work checking emails, weather, bank accounts and uploading our logs and pictures. The connection was very slow and it took over 35 minutes to upload the pictures.
Noon rolled around and shopping still needed to be done. It is about a 5 block stroll over the Leather Masters where aeon had a repair done on some leather. Then it was back to Faustio’s Market for some produce.
As we were walking we talked about various scenarios for departure for Central America. All of them began with Harry being available and the weather. The conclusion was that it would be sometime next week before that could happen at the earliest. Aeon suggested she go back to Ft. Myers for the weekend and work for a couple of days. Her justification was that money is needed and that living on a yacht in Key West, working 2 or 3 days in Ft. Myers and commuting by ferry was such a bad thing. I think she really misses the JoeBob and Jena, plus Alison is the visiting right now.
Since the ferry terminal was on the way to the dinghy (well almost) we decided to see if Avner was on board today and if he wanted to join us for lunch. He was and said he would meet us when they got the ship secure.
Lunch at Dante’s on the wharf was a convivial affair. Catching up on Avner’s sail boat project and sharing the news from our perspective. Lunch ended with aeon deciding to join Avner on the ferry for the ride back to Ft. Myers and come back down either Sunday or Monday.
The wind had clocked around a little more to the East so the ride back to Second Star was dry and swift. Aeon packed a bag and prepared to go back to Key West. We had about an hour to lie on the bed and rest together before it was time to take Tink back into Key West. Again a quick and dry ride in.
It felt very nice walking along the wharf to the ferry terminal. It has warmed up a bit and the wind lacked the bite it had last week. Maybe next week will be the weather window we need to set sail.
The terminal was its usual mix of sunburned tourist and drunk locals. The mate for the Marco Ferry was having a tough time of it trying to get the passengers to organize themselves and queue up properly.
Ahh humanity.
Got back to Second Star at 1730hrs local., Started the generator and turned on the watermaker. What amazing magic that makes fresh water from the ocean.
Which brings me to the present and this log. I am sitting on the couch with Eve in my lap watching the gloaming settle of Man O War Harbor. When I have made 30 or so gallons of fresh water I will switch to battery charge mode and make some dinner. All is well aboard Second Star, although I do miss aeon already, Life is good.
Lat 24º 34.95' N Long 81º 48.21' W
At anchor Key West Florida Man O War Harbor
Wind 21.9 knots N by NE
Sea State – 1' to 2' - Beaufort 6
Air Temp 71.1F Barometer 30.31
Mostly Clear during the day but some cloudiness to the E this evening
This morning was an early one. I got up at 0500 hrs local to replace thee drive belt on the generator and charge the batteries before we left for Key West. Aeon and I had lots of internet to catch up on and some shopping to do. So it meant and early start to the day. I don’t mind because I do so like to watch the sun rise.
Once the batteries were charging I made myself some breakfast; the usual oatmeal with raisins, juice and a cup of tea. Aeon got up about 0700 hrs and we both sat down with our computers and worked on the logs and the pictures for the blog. I swear that once I get caught up with the pictures I am going to do them daily.
About 1030hrs we put our things away and prepared to head to shore. I had aeon do the generator shutdown sequence so she can learn the system. It is pleasure to work with her because she has a real desire to be a competent mariner. As her Captain as well as her husband I am the first to admit that I am one very lucky fellow to have her as my partner. She loves the sea.
We got into town about 100hrs. Parked Tink (yes, we have named the dinghy’s the 12’ aluminum is Tink and 16’ Skiff is Hook) at the dinghy docks and walked over to the Coffee Plantation Internet Cafe. We ordered some coffee and a croissant and went to work checking emails, weather, bank accounts and uploading our logs and pictures. The connection was very slow and it took over 35 minutes to upload the pictures.
Noon rolled around and shopping still needed to be done. It is about a 5 block stroll over the Leather Masters where aeon had a repair done on some leather. Then it was back to Faustio’s Market for some produce.
As we were walking we talked about various scenarios for departure for Central America. All of them began with Harry being available and the weather. The conclusion was that it would be sometime next week before that could happen at the earliest. Aeon suggested she go back to Ft. Myers for the weekend and work for a couple of days. Her justification was that money is needed and that living on a yacht in Key West, working 2 or 3 days in Ft. Myers and commuting by ferry was such a bad thing. I think she really misses the JoeBob and Jena, plus Alison is the visiting right now.
Since the ferry terminal was on the way to the dinghy (well almost) we decided to see if Avner was on board today and if he wanted to join us for lunch. He was and said he would meet us when they got the ship secure.
Lunch at Dante’s on the wharf was a convivial affair. Catching up on Avner’s sail boat project and sharing the news from our perspective. Lunch ended with aeon deciding to join Avner on the ferry for the ride back to Ft. Myers and come back down either Sunday or Monday.
The wind had clocked around a little more to the East so the ride back to Second Star was dry and swift. Aeon packed a bag and prepared to go back to Key West. We had about an hour to lie on the bed and rest together before it was time to take Tink back into Key West. Again a quick and dry ride in.
It felt very nice walking along the wharf to the ferry terminal. It has warmed up a bit and the wind lacked the bite it had last week. Maybe next week will be the weather window we need to set sail.
The terminal was its usual mix of sunburned tourist and drunk locals. The mate for the Marco Ferry was having a tough time of it trying to get the passengers to organize themselves and queue up properly.
Ahh humanity.
Got back to Second Star at 1730hrs local., Started the generator and turned on the watermaker. What amazing magic that makes fresh water from the ocean.
Which brings me to the present and this log. I am sitting on the couch with Eve in my lap watching the gloaming settle of Man O War Harbor. When I have made 30 or so gallons of fresh water I will switch to battery charge mode and make some dinner. All is well aboard Second Star, although I do miss aeon already, Life is good.
Thursday, March 5, 2009
March 3 Log Entry
03 Mar 2009 2310 hrs GMT (almost sunset) 1810 hrs local
Lat 24º 34.95' N Long 81º 48.21' W
At anchor Key West Florida Man O War Harbor
Wind 22.3 knots N by NW
Sea State – 1' to 2' - Beaufort 6
Air Temp 59.1ºF Barometer 30.19 ↑
Clear, a few clouds low on the western horizon, sunset alert
Slept soundly through the night. First time since arriving in Key West. Felt very refreshed when I arose 0615. aeon called me at 0710 from the pump aisle of Home Depot in Ft. Myers. I described the boost pump we needed and she purchased it. Alison Roeder was be aeon's chauffeur and then delivered aeon and the pump to the Key West ferry.
The morning was filled with boat chores. I stripped the beds, gathered up all the towels, dirty clothes, etc. and prepared to do laundry. Loaded the washing machine and turned it on. Damn, something is amiss and I don't know what, but it will require removing the washer from the rack. It is a job that is much easier with two people so no laundry today.
The main bilge needed rearranging, so I emptied all the inventory out and set up to reload the bilge after I have scrubbed and rinsed the bottom. It got a load of wash water emptied into the last time we did laundry and forgot to open the thru hull. At least it is soapy clean water and not diesel fuel or sewage.
I mounted the mirrors in the master stateroom and in the master head. Two more items off the to do list. Then I made drawer fasteners to lock the tool drawers while under way. Thus replace the trusty bungee cord which was the temporary fix.
Aeon called from the ferry to announce their arrival at the sea buoy. I put up my tools and gathered gear to run the dingy into Key West. As I was motoring in I saw the ferry enter the channel for the marina. Good timing, I would arrive about the time aeon would be disembarking. The phone rang in my backpack as I was docking the dingy I had to ignore it. By the time I got tied up and on the dock aeon arrived looking lovely and carrying the all important pump.
It was a wet ride back to Second Star. What with the wind and the waves full on the bow we both got soaked (at least where our foul weather jackets didn't cover). Make note to invent wiper blades for dark glasses.
Aeon and I spent a leisurely afternoon aboard. Having lunch, chatting and a nice snuggle and nap.
The sun is almost down and lights are coming on all around us and on shore. Mixed up a sour dough start on Sunday, it should be ready to make bread tonight. Mmmm fresh sour dough baguette tomorrow.
A side note to the log: Harry's father is dieing. He has been very sick for a long time. Congestive heart failure, diabetes and now renal failure. Harry called this morning to say that they had put him on a morphine drip, it appears his passing is imminent.
Harry had hoped to get to Guatemala and back before his father passed. What with all the delays in departure due to weather and parts for critical systems it seems that the Tao was providing for Harry to be there with his mother and sister attending to his father. I told Harry not to stress; we would not leave without him and that we wanted him to be there with his family.
I am always amazed how the Tao works to provide what you need on your Path. Had we off left on schedule Harry would have been at sea. Now he can be with his father and family and then have the trip to Guatemala for healing.
Now, what's for dinner?
2135 hrs (local)
To answer the dinner question, I prepared a steak on the BBQ to share, while aeon made a salad and boiled red potatoes sliced then lightly tossed in a buttered herbs. We enjoyed a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon. All that accompanied by a fire in the fireplace.
On a more somber note Harry's father passed very quickly today. He died a little after 2100 hrs. His passing was quick and peaceful with his family around him. Our thoughts and prayers are with Harry in this time of connecting the ends of circle of life
March 2 Log Entry
02 Mar 2009 1405 hrs GMT (mid mid morning) 0905 hrs local
Lat 24º 34.95' N Long 81º 48.21' W
At anchor Key West Florida
Wind 23.8 knots W by NW
Sea State -2' to 3' with some white caps - Beaufort
Air Temp 60.6ºF Barometer 30.13 rising
low broken cloud cover
A long night on anchor watch. Winds to full storm strength, excess of 50 knots. Second Star performed flawlessly. She rode her anchor well. Things seem to be calming down now, the winds are for the most part under 30 knots and the whitecaps are mostly gone from Man O' War Harbor.
An interesting and somewhat perplexing event happened just after 0500 hrs local. I was snuggling with Eve on the couch listening to the the Benedictine monks of Santo Domingo de Silos chants. It is pitch black outside with the just the wind and the waves and the radar echoes. Suddenly the starboard side of Second Star is illuminated with a bright white light, that floods the salon. My first thought was “damn those monks really know how to chant”, my next thought was either I or someone else is adrift in the anchorage and trying to warn me of an imminent collision. I jump up and checked the radar and we hadn't moved. Neither had any of the boats moved in relationship to me. Just a small target moving up on starboard.
Using the binoculars I could observe a low vessel motoring up to the Freedom 40 cat rigged ketch off my starboard beam. The ketch was unattended as I hadn't observed anyone aboard during our stay her, but she was well moored and was riding the storm well. In the illumination of the spotlight now trained on the ketch I could clearly see her waterline well above the waves. So she wasn'r sinking.
There were two men aboard the motor vessel. While the helmsman held along the port side, the second man leap aboard the ketch amidships and moved very swiftly to the bow carrying what appeared to be a tow hawser. He passed the hawser around the pulpit and I am assuming secured it to a cleat. Meanwhile the helmsman moved the towboat forward and I could read the name Marine Assist on her hull sides. She had an orange hull with a small vertical house well aft and very low freeboard. She was taking waves over the bow and down the decks. Marine Assist then moved forward of the ketch and took up the slack in the hawser. Slowly the ketch inched towards her mooring ball. I couldn't see how the ketch became unattached from the mooring, but the tow moved forward towards the NW then turned 180º to port and towed the ketch back towards Key West.
As I pondered this event, I couldn't understand why someone would wait until this late in a storm to move a vessel to safety. It was apparent and well broadcast that this front would arrive mid afternoon yesterday and bring some severe weather with it. If you did have a panicky owner why not wait another hour until daylight. It certainly appeared to me that she was riding well and high, with no evidence of a slipped mooring. Now she may have been equipped with watch system that reported water in the bilge or some other condition aboard and had alerted Marine Assist to respond.
I put the thoughts away until just after dawn Marine Assist was back and cruising around in the anchorage idling up towards one boat after another. Someone on a schooner aft of Second Star came out on deck and spoke with the crew of Marine Assist which then proceeded wandering south through the anchorage then across the channel to the West.
Very odd behavior when taken as a whole. I think I will have a chat with Coast Guard when I get in the Marina. Key West was founded by wreckers who would lure ships onto the reefs using false lights then plunder their victims.
Going to take a shower and get a nap since the wind appears to be subsiding.
0140 hrs GMT
Winds 22.7 knots WNW Barometer 30.15 in hg ↑
Sea State 1 to 2' out of the West
Bed time. It has been a long 36 hrs. This afternoon I lowered the dingy and rode into Key West. The harbor is still pretty lumpy; with only one person aboard it was a boisterous but dry ride. I tied up at the Turtle Kraal and walked to the Cubanista's hardware store to look for some ceramic inserts for the guides on one of my rods. No joy, but it is always pleasant to wander around an old fashioned marine hardware store.
Afterwards I walked on down the street to the Coffee Plantation which has WiFi for the price of a cup of coffee. I looked at my e-mail, perused the BBC news, made a couple of comments on Facebook and sent off my logs to Jeni for posting on the web site. By then it was time to meet Commander Mike who had graciously volunteered to drive me to Home Depot to get the boost pump for the water maker. Harry had located the pump in the Ft. Myers Home Depot. After looking and then inquiring it seems that Home Depot Key West doesn't stock the same inventory as Ft. Myers. They can special order it and have it in 7 to 10 days. Aeon is coming home on the ferry tomorrow and she can bring one from Ft. Myers and barring any other surprises we will have fresh water from the sea by tomorrow afternoon.
The winds seem to be holding below 30 knots so I can sleep in my bed tonight. It is amazing that on our second night here I spent the night on anchor watch because the wind was blowing 25 knots. Now I am going to bed because the wind is blowing 25 knots. Experience is the thing you get right after you need it.
Lat 24º 34.95' N Long 81º 48.21' W
At anchor Key West Florida
Wind 23.8 knots W by NW
Sea State -2' to 3' with some white caps - Beaufort
Air Temp 60.6ºF Barometer 30.13 rising
low broken cloud cover
A long night on anchor watch. Winds to full storm strength, excess of 50 knots. Second Star performed flawlessly. She rode her anchor well. Things seem to be calming down now, the winds are for the most part under 30 knots and the whitecaps are mostly gone from Man O' War Harbor.
An interesting and somewhat perplexing event happened just after 0500 hrs local. I was snuggling with Eve on the couch listening to the the Benedictine monks of Santo Domingo de Silos chants. It is pitch black outside with the just the wind and the waves and the radar echoes. Suddenly the starboard side of Second Star is illuminated with a bright white light, that floods the salon. My first thought was “damn those monks really know how to chant”, my next thought was either I or someone else is adrift in the anchorage and trying to warn me of an imminent collision. I jump up and checked the radar and we hadn't moved. Neither had any of the boats moved in relationship to me. Just a small target moving up on starboard.
Using the binoculars I could observe a low vessel motoring up to the Freedom 40 cat rigged ketch off my starboard beam. The ketch was unattended as I hadn't observed anyone aboard during our stay her, but she was well moored and was riding the storm well. In the illumination of the spotlight now trained on the ketch I could clearly see her waterline well above the waves. So she wasn'r sinking.
There were two men aboard the motor vessel. While the helmsman held along the port side, the second man leap aboard the ketch amidships and moved very swiftly to the bow carrying what appeared to be a tow hawser. He passed the hawser around the pulpit and I am assuming secured it to a cleat. Meanwhile the helmsman moved the towboat forward and I could read the name Marine Assist on her hull sides. She had an orange hull with a small vertical house well aft and very low freeboard. She was taking waves over the bow and down the decks. Marine Assist then moved forward of the ketch and took up the slack in the hawser. Slowly the ketch inched towards her mooring ball. I couldn't see how the ketch became unattached from the mooring, but the tow moved forward towards the NW then turned 180º to port and towed the ketch back towards Key West.
As I pondered this event, I couldn't understand why someone would wait until this late in a storm to move a vessel to safety. It was apparent and well broadcast that this front would arrive mid afternoon yesterday and bring some severe weather with it. If you did have a panicky owner why not wait another hour until daylight. It certainly appeared to me that she was riding well and high, with no evidence of a slipped mooring. Now she may have been equipped with watch system that reported water in the bilge or some other condition aboard and had alerted Marine Assist to respond.
I put the thoughts away until just after dawn Marine Assist was back and cruising around in the anchorage idling up towards one boat after another. Someone on a schooner aft of Second Star came out on deck and spoke with the crew of Marine Assist which then proceeded wandering south through the anchorage then across the channel to the West.
Very odd behavior when taken as a whole. I think I will have a chat with Coast Guard when I get in the Marina. Key West was founded by wreckers who would lure ships onto the reefs using false lights then plunder their victims.
Going to take a shower and get a nap since the wind appears to be subsiding.
0140 hrs GMT
Winds 22.7 knots WNW Barometer 30.15 in hg ↑
Sea State 1 to 2' out of the West
Bed time. It has been a long 36 hrs. This afternoon I lowered the dingy and rode into Key West. The harbor is still pretty lumpy; with only one person aboard it was a boisterous but dry ride. I tied up at the Turtle Kraal and walked to the Cubanista's hardware store to look for some ceramic inserts for the guides on one of my rods. No joy, but it is always pleasant to wander around an old fashioned marine hardware store.
Afterwards I walked on down the street to the Coffee Plantation which has WiFi for the price of a cup of coffee. I looked at my e-mail, perused the BBC news, made a couple of comments on Facebook and sent off my logs to Jeni for posting on the web site. By then it was time to meet Commander Mike who had graciously volunteered to drive me to Home Depot to get the boost pump for the water maker. Harry had located the pump in the Ft. Myers Home Depot. After looking and then inquiring it seems that Home Depot Key West doesn't stock the same inventory as Ft. Myers. They can special order it and have it in 7 to 10 days. Aeon is coming home on the ferry tomorrow and she can bring one from Ft. Myers and barring any other surprises we will have fresh water from the sea by tomorrow afternoon.
The winds seem to be holding below 30 knots so I can sleep in my bed tonight. It is amazing that on our second night here I spent the night on anchor watch because the wind was blowing 25 knots. Now I am going to bed because the wind is blowing 25 knots. Experience is the thing you get right after you need it.
March 1 Log Entry
01 Mar 2009 1930 hrs GMT (mid afternoon) 1430 hrs local
Lat 24º 34.95' N Long 81º 48.21' W
At anchor Key West Florida
Wind 33.4 knots W
Sea State -2' to 3' with white caps - Beaufort 8
Air Temp 76.8ºF Barometer 29.91 steady
Today is an early entry for an early day. Started this morning at 0530 local to R&R the generator head. Located the problem with plastic smell last night. The internal fan for the generator was spinning on the drive shaft and melting. Very poor design not to have the fan on a key way. Removed to damaged fan and remounted the generator. We have on board a large selection of spares and McGuiver parts. I located the 110 VAC blower and mounted it to cool the generator and wired it into the output circuit so it comes on with the generator.
Ran a test charge cycle on the batteries and it seems to be working better than original. Generator is significantly cooler and that is good.
The forecast predicted a cold front to move through the Keys this afternoon. So I rearranged the anchor chains to let out another 40'. That little project required locating the connector links, then redoing the anchor locker to change from two chain bins to one and peening the connector to the bitter end of both chains. That gives us 140' of rode in 15'; a 9:1 scope. I am trusting that will hold in the silty Key West bottom.
After a quick bite to eat I loaded up the dingy to go to Home Depot and get the boost pump fir the watermaker. About half way in the outboard started run rough and the weather was looking iffy so I returned to Second Star. It was a good thing because within 45 minutes the wind clocked from the South to the West and Second Star was hit with an opening volley of wind at 48+ knots. After the opening blasts it settled down to a full gale (34 to 40 knots). Which brings me up to the present.
Aeon may be in Ft. Myers an extra couple of days with this storm. The ferry canceled today and tomorrow and will probably cancel Tuesday. Hopefully she can be back by Wednesday.
Here I sit in the salon, listening to the wind and the waves writing in my log. It is amazing what I have available right here to provide for me and to protect me. The more time Second Star and I spend together the more I am gaining confidence in her abilities and her system. She is proving to be a seaworthy vessel with the comfort and amenities one would expect in an expedition yacht fisherman. Now if I can only get the watermaker working and learn how to setup the weather fax program and ..... she is a boat so the list of to do's is never ending. Right now I am glad the anchor is holding and the fridge is cold and hot water is available for a shower. The wind is steady between 35 and 40 knots, the temperature is falling and barometer is starting back up. Tomorrow I will see about getting into Key West. Right now Life is good.
Midnight and the wind is making the boat moan. The radar is on with the alarm set and I have been on anchor watch since 1500 hrs local. Eve and I have been sharing he couch taking little “cat” naps between observations. Currently the wind is out of the West @ 44.6 knots with gust over 50 knots. Beaufort would rank that as a steady full gale with intrusions into the storm range. The seas in the anchorage are running a steady 3' with white caps. Our anchor seems to be holding well even though we are swinging in a 55º arc.
Just before sunset I observed a sailboat motoring her way down the channel headed for the Gulf of Mexico. I could see the helmsman and a crew member in the cockpit in full fowl weather gear. Wherever they were headed on a night like this I wish them God speed. I would not of wanted to be heading into Gulf.
Lat 24º 34.95' N Long 81º 48.21' W
At anchor Key West Florida
Wind 33.4 knots W
Sea State -2' to 3' with white caps - Beaufort 8
Air Temp 76.8ºF Barometer 29.91 steady
Today is an early entry for an early day. Started this morning at 0530 local to R&R the generator head. Located the problem with plastic smell last night. The internal fan for the generator was spinning on the drive shaft and melting. Very poor design not to have the fan on a key way. Removed to damaged fan and remounted the generator. We have on board a large selection of spares and McGuiver parts. I located the 110 VAC blower and mounted it to cool the generator and wired it into the output circuit so it comes on with the generator.
Ran a test charge cycle on the batteries and it seems to be working better than original. Generator is significantly cooler and that is good.
The forecast predicted a cold front to move through the Keys this afternoon. So I rearranged the anchor chains to let out another 40'. That little project required locating the connector links, then redoing the anchor locker to change from two chain bins to one and peening the connector to the bitter end of both chains. That gives us 140' of rode in 15'; a 9:1 scope. I am trusting that will hold in the silty Key West bottom.
After a quick bite to eat I loaded up the dingy to go to Home Depot and get the boost pump fir the watermaker. About half way in the outboard started run rough and the weather was looking iffy so I returned to Second Star. It was a good thing because within 45 minutes the wind clocked from the South to the West and Second Star was hit with an opening volley of wind at 48+ knots. After the opening blasts it settled down to a full gale (34 to 40 knots). Which brings me up to the present.
Aeon may be in Ft. Myers an extra couple of days with this storm. The ferry canceled today and tomorrow and will probably cancel Tuesday. Hopefully she can be back by Wednesday.
Here I sit in the salon, listening to the wind and the waves writing in my log. It is amazing what I have available right here to provide for me and to protect me. The more time Second Star and I spend together the more I am gaining confidence in her abilities and her system. She is proving to be a seaworthy vessel with the comfort and amenities one would expect in an expedition yacht fisherman. Now if I can only get the watermaker working and learn how to setup the weather fax program and ..... she is a boat so the list of to do's is never ending. Right now I am glad the anchor is holding and the fridge is cold and hot water is available for a shower. The wind is steady between 35 and 40 knots, the temperature is falling and barometer is starting back up. Tomorrow I will see about getting into Key West. Right now Life is good.
Midnight and the wind is making the boat moan. The radar is on with the alarm set and I have been on anchor watch since 1500 hrs local. Eve and I have been sharing he couch taking little “cat” naps between observations. Currently the wind is out of the West @ 44.6 knots with gust over 50 knots. Beaufort would rank that as a steady full gale with intrusions into the storm range. The seas in the anchorage are running a steady 3' with white caps. Our anchor seems to be holding well even though we are swinging in a 55º arc.
Just before sunset I observed a sailboat motoring her way down the channel headed for the Gulf of Mexico. I could see the helmsman and a crew member in the cockpit in full fowl weather gear. Wherever they were headed on a night like this I wish them God speed. I would not of wanted to be heading into Gulf.
February 28 Log Entry
28 Feb 2009 2335 hrs GMT (sunset)
Lat 24º 34.95' N Long 81º 48.21' W
At anchor Key West Florida
Wind 7.7 knots ESE
Sea State -Light Chop
Air Temp 76.7ºF Barometer 29.91 and falling
Eve and I had breakfast on the aft deck this morning. Well actually I had breakfast and Eve kept me company.
Cleaned up the galley went to work on replacing the fuel return lines on the generator. Checked the electrolyte in the batteries and started the generator to charge the house banks. After about an hour I noticed a smell like the way styrene would smell when I used to build plastic models and would take the soldering iron and melt the plastic for some reason or another. After checking the engine room several times I shut the generator down to inspect for the cause. Nothing out of the ordinary made itself apparent. I was puzzeled.
Ralph called and said that he was loading up his boat and would be over in a while with a load of water. I called Patty to see if she would run me to home Depot so I could look at the potential boost pump for the water maker. I got her voice mail so I left a message.
While waiting for Ralph I watched a 25 something foot sport fishing boat in the channel. There were three men aboard, one obviously a pro guide and the other two his clients. A very round young black man had a rod in his hands that was connect to what seemed to be a large fish. His even rounder friend was pointing and taking pictures. The drifted slowly past Second Stars transom with the fish in the lead. On by and down the channel, then back and across towards the shoals to the West. I watched with the binoculars until I got a glimpse of a very large tarpon doing a head shake on the surface then return to the depths. For the next 40 or so minutes the fish dragged the boat slowly nothward and eventually out of side around the key the sits about 2 miles away. I didn't witness the end of the fight, but I can attest that the angler was changing hands on the rod and resting against the helm or gunnel at every opportunity.
Ralph showed up with about 60 gallons of water which we transferred to the main tank. It is good to have extra water aboard again. Tonight I plan a real shower and tomorrow to do some laundry. Hopefully by tomorrow evening I will have the water maker working and will be back to normal.
Earlier in the week Ralph had mention that the City of Key West has a moorage field set up just east of the key to my immediate east. Since the weather forecast is calling for some serious W to NW winds tomorrow afternoon I thought it would be a good idea to move Second Star to a mooring. Ralph ran me around there in his Cobia and it was a perfect spot. We went on into Garrison Bite and sought out the harbor master. Where I inquired as to cost and availability. Everything was fine until he said that nothing over 50' was allowed.
I told him Second Star was documented at 50', but it seems that they measure LOA (length overall) including Bow Pulpit and swim platform. I tried to cajole him into letting me moor but he was as adamant as he was pleasant. A true bureaucrat.
Since Patty hadn't called back Ralph suggested a little fishing on the way. We tried several locations but didn't produce anything we could keep except a 4' lemon shark which we didn't want.
Came back to Second Star and gave the generator a very close going over. No more fuel leak, but I was unable to locate the source of the styrene smell. Started the genset to continue the interrupted battery charging. I kept checking the engine room and after about 40 minutes the smell had returned. Just as I shut the genset down again a piece a melted plastic bounced out on the engine room sole. A close inspection revealed that the internal cooling fan on the generator head had begun to melt. I will take it apart after dinner and formulate alternative cooling. Ahhh the peaceful life of a boater.
This evening the moon is a crescent above Venus, but I trust the gap will narrow as moonset approaches. And the last day of February fades towards midnight.
Lat 24º 34.95' N Long 81º 48.21' W
At anchor Key West Florida
Wind 7.7 knots ESE
Sea State -Light Chop
Air Temp 76.7ºF Barometer 29.91 and falling
Eve and I had breakfast on the aft deck this morning. Well actually I had breakfast and Eve kept me company.
Cleaned up the galley went to work on replacing the fuel return lines on the generator. Checked the electrolyte in the batteries and started the generator to charge the house banks. After about an hour I noticed a smell like the way styrene would smell when I used to build plastic models and would take the soldering iron and melt the plastic for some reason or another. After checking the engine room several times I shut the generator down to inspect for the cause. Nothing out of the ordinary made itself apparent. I was puzzeled.
Ralph called and said that he was loading up his boat and would be over in a while with a load of water. I called Patty to see if she would run me to home Depot so I could look at the potential boost pump for the water maker. I got her voice mail so I left a message.
While waiting for Ralph I watched a 25 something foot sport fishing boat in the channel. There were three men aboard, one obviously a pro guide and the other two his clients. A very round young black man had a rod in his hands that was connect to what seemed to be a large fish. His even rounder friend was pointing and taking pictures. The drifted slowly past Second Stars transom with the fish in the lead. On by and down the channel, then back and across towards the shoals to the West. I watched with the binoculars until I got a glimpse of a very large tarpon doing a head shake on the surface then return to the depths. For the next 40 or so minutes the fish dragged the boat slowly nothward and eventually out of side around the key the sits about 2 miles away. I didn't witness the end of the fight, but I can attest that the angler was changing hands on the rod and resting against the helm or gunnel at every opportunity.
Ralph showed up with about 60 gallons of water which we transferred to the main tank. It is good to have extra water aboard again. Tonight I plan a real shower and tomorrow to do some laundry. Hopefully by tomorrow evening I will have the water maker working and will be back to normal.
Earlier in the week Ralph had mention that the City of Key West has a moorage field set up just east of the key to my immediate east. Since the weather forecast is calling for some serious W to NW winds tomorrow afternoon I thought it would be a good idea to move Second Star to a mooring. Ralph ran me around there in his Cobia and it was a perfect spot. We went on into Garrison Bite and sought out the harbor master. Where I inquired as to cost and availability. Everything was fine until he said that nothing over 50' was allowed.
I told him Second Star was documented at 50', but it seems that they measure LOA (length overall) including Bow Pulpit and swim platform. I tried to cajole him into letting me moor but he was as adamant as he was pleasant. A true bureaucrat.
Since Patty hadn't called back Ralph suggested a little fishing on the way. We tried several locations but didn't produce anything we could keep except a 4' lemon shark which we didn't want.
Came back to Second Star and gave the generator a very close going over. No more fuel leak, but I was unable to locate the source of the styrene smell. Started the genset to continue the interrupted battery charging. I kept checking the engine room and after about 40 minutes the smell had returned. Just as I shut the genset down again a piece a melted plastic bounced out on the engine room sole. A close inspection revealed that the internal cooling fan on the generator head had begun to melt. I will take it apart after dinner and formulate alternative cooling. Ahhh the peaceful life of a boater.
This evening the moon is a crescent above Venus, but I trust the gap will narrow as moonset approaches. And the last day of February fades towards midnight.
February 27 log entry
27 Feb 2009 1930 hrs GMT
Lat 24º 34.95' N Long 81º 48.21' W
At anchor Key West Florida
Wind 14.3 knots E
Sea State -Light Chop
Air Temp 75.9ºF Barometer 30.02 and falling
One more day left in February. Got up this morning alone on Second Star. Had a cup of tea and a bowl of cereal with Eve on the aft deck. Nice sunrise. Did the morning boat chores: clean the litter box, feed Eve her daily treat, cleaned and vacuumed. Turned my attentions to a small fuel found a lose clamp on a fuel connection line. Tightened it up and started the generator to charge the batteries.
Went to work adding a boost pump to the inlet water side of the water maker. When I tested it it made a positive difference but not enough pressure. I need a larger pump. Called HRO for a replacement impeller for the original pump and found out that the pump has been superseded with a newer version (read more expensive $970). Spent the middle part of the day searching for a replacement. So far no joy.
At 1620 local time while I was waiting for Ralph to call about meeting in Key West for a beer a Donzi center console pulled along side the port stern quarter with three paramilitary types . Two armed officers jump aboard without requesting permission. When I approached them one stated they were here to inspect Second Star for MSD (marine sanitation device=toilet) compliance. I am glad aeon wasn't onboard, heavily armed and armored officers checking out our toilets would have been very hard on her. After ascertaining that our toilets were legal they reviewed the ships documents and safety gear. Second Star stood their muster and was issued an inspection form marked in compliance. I am sure there are multiple opportunities for humor here.
I ran Tink into Key West and met Ralph. It was to late to check with the local electrical distributor for replacement parts for the water maker. I will go to Home Depot tomorrow and see what they have. Ralph is bringing me another load of water tomorrow on his way to go fishing.
The long range weather forecast still has us closed out for a crossing of the Gulf Stream. Mid to late next week would be the earliest we can hope for.
Lat 24º 34.95' N Long 81º 48.21' W
At anchor Key West Florida
Wind 14.3 knots E
Sea State -Light Chop
Air Temp 75.9ºF Barometer 30.02 and falling
One more day left in February. Got up this morning alone on Second Star. Had a cup of tea and a bowl of cereal with Eve on the aft deck. Nice sunrise. Did the morning boat chores: clean the litter box, feed Eve her daily treat, cleaned and vacuumed. Turned my attentions to a small fuel found a lose clamp on a fuel connection line. Tightened it up and started the generator to charge the batteries.
Went to work adding a boost pump to the inlet water side of the water maker. When I tested it it made a positive difference but not enough pressure. I need a larger pump. Called HRO for a replacement impeller for the original pump and found out that the pump has been superseded with a newer version (read more expensive $970). Spent the middle part of the day searching for a replacement. So far no joy.
At 1620 local time while I was waiting for Ralph to call about meeting in Key West for a beer a Donzi center console pulled along side the port stern quarter with three paramilitary types . Two armed officers jump aboard without requesting permission. When I approached them one stated they were here to inspect Second Star for MSD (marine sanitation device=toilet) compliance. I am glad aeon wasn't onboard, heavily armed and armored officers checking out our toilets would have been very hard on her. After ascertaining that our toilets were legal they reviewed the ships documents and safety gear. Second Star stood their muster and was issued an inspection form marked in compliance. I am sure there are multiple opportunities for humor here.
I ran Tink into Key West and met Ralph. It was to late to check with the local electrical distributor for replacement parts for the water maker. I will go to Home Depot tomorrow and see what they have. Ralph is bringing me another load of water tomorrow on his way to go fishing.
The long range weather forecast still has us closed out for a crossing of the Gulf Stream. Mid to late next week would be the earliest we can hope for.
Feb 26 Log entry
26 Feb 2009 0028 hrs GMT
Lat 24º 34.95' N Long 81º 48.21' W
At anchor Key West Florida
Wind 15.7 knots ENE
Sea State -Light Chop
Air Temp 69.6ºF Barometer 30.14
Watched both the sunrise and the sunset today. Both beautiful. Looking due west out the aft cabin door is the moon, a silver crescent with dusky disc 10º above the horizon and Venus 15º above that.
This morning I cleaned the carburetor on the 9.9 hp Mercury outboard on Tink. It was running very rough and each time we went into Key West I would make a note to correct the problem. Well this morning while Harry replaced the control manifold on the water maker I did it. Runs much better.
Water maker still no producing water. No leaks but we can't get the high pressure pump to fully prime. Tomorrow morning I am going to put a circulation pump in line to see if the extra boost makes the difference. If not I need to call our friend Ralph to bring me out some water. I did get a hot shower this evening but I don't think there is much left.
Captain Avner (of the Key West Express) came for lunch this afternoon. He was delivering some aluminum parts from Ken idle in Ft. Myers for our anchor. Harry, aeon and I went to town just before noon to exchange a part and use the internet while we waited for the ferry and Captain Avner. Had a very wet ride in the dingy back to Second Star for lunch and a visit. Harry and aeon got packed to take the ferry up to Ft. Myers with Avner. It is good to have friends. Aeon should be back in a few days and I expect Harry by next Wednesday or Thursday if the weather improves for a crossing of the Gulf Stream to Cabo San Antonio Cuba.
At 1530 hrs (local) we all loaded in Tink for another wet ride back to Key West. Made the worse by a strong ebb tide that caused to gulf to set up in nasty little waves. Avner went straight to the ferry, while we went to Dante's and sat in the sun to dry off. Just before 1700 hrs I walked with aeon and Harry to the ferry terminal where we said our good-byes.
Without Tink being loaded to the gunnels she and I made short (and dry) work of the 1.8 NM back to Second Star. Which brings me back to the moon which now is settling towards the horizon. The channel marks are flashing red and green off the port stern quarter, Second Star rest at anchor in the pale illumination of her anchor light and the stars are filling the sky. Life is good.
Lat 24º 34.95' N Long 81º 48.21' W
At anchor Key West Florida
Wind 15.7 knots ENE
Sea State -Light Chop
Air Temp 69.6ºF Barometer 30.14
Watched both the sunrise and the sunset today. Both beautiful. Looking due west out the aft cabin door is the moon, a silver crescent with dusky disc 10º above the horizon and Venus 15º above that.
This morning I cleaned the carburetor on the 9.9 hp Mercury outboard on Tink. It was running very rough and each time we went into Key West I would make a note to correct the problem. Well this morning while Harry replaced the control manifold on the water maker I did it. Runs much better.
Water maker still no producing water. No leaks but we can't get the high pressure pump to fully prime. Tomorrow morning I am going to put a circulation pump in line to see if the extra boost makes the difference. If not I need to call our friend Ralph to bring me out some water. I did get a hot shower this evening but I don't think there is much left.
Captain Avner (of the Key West Express) came for lunch this afternoon. He was delivering some aluminum parts from Ken idle in Ft. Myers for our anchor. Harry, aeon and I went to town just before noon to exchange a part and use the internet while we waited for the ferry and Captain Avner. Had a very wet ride in the dingy back to Second Star for lunch and a visit. Harry and aeon got packed to take the ferry up to Ft. Myers with Avner. It is good to have friends. Aeon should be back in a few days and I expect Harry by next Wednesday or Thursday if the weather improves for a crossing of the Gulf Stream to Cabo San Antonio Cuba.
At 1530 hrs (local) we all loaded in Tink for another wet ride back to Key West. Made the worse by a strong ebb tide that caused to gulf to set up in nasty little waves. Avner went straight to the ferry, while we went to Dante's and sat in the sun to dry off. Just before 1700 hrs I walked with aeon and Harry to the ferry terminal where we said our good-byes.
Without Tink being loaded to the gunnels she and I made short (and dry) work of the 1.8 NM back to Second Star. Which brings me back to the moon which now is settling towards the horizon. The channel marks are flashing red and green off the port stern quarter, Second Star rest at anchor in the pale illumination of her anchor light and the stars are filling the sky. Life is good.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)